Bespoke suit, made-to-measure or off the peg: what is the difference?
An off-the-peg suit is sewn in standard sizes and hangs ready in the shop. Made-to-measure adapts an existing base pattern to your measurements. A bespoke suit is cut for you alone, made by hand and fitted to you over several fittings. At Lawrence Fashion, the bespoke tailor at Löwenplatz in Zurich, a bespoke suit usually takes 4 to 5 fittings and 4 to 5 weeks.
What is a bespoke suit?
A bespoke suit is cut and sewn for one person. It starts from a paper pattern of your own, cut in firm paper and cardboard, which is made only for you and adjusted after every fitting.
We make bespoke suits in two forms. Precision tailoring is built from scratch to your wishes, from the cut to the last detail. Business tailoring is the tailor-made suit for working life: it fits exactly and lets you move freely, so you can concentrate fully on your work.
Your pattern and your measurement sheet stay with us. When you come back for the next suit, we build on them. Some of our clients have come to us regularly since we opened in 2001.
What is made-to-measure?
Made-to-measure starts from a finished base pattern in a standard size. It is adjusted to your main measurements, such as sleeve length, waist and trouser length. You choose the fabric, lining, buttons and some details from a selection.
It is usually sewn in a factory. The result fits better than a suit off the peg. The cut behind it is still a standard cut, made for many figures.
What is off the peg?
Off the peg means clothes in standard sizes, sewn in advance and ready to take home. The cut follows a size chart based on an average figure.
If you are between two sizes, or have long arms or broad shoulders, you notice it first in the sleeves, the shoulders and the waistband. Sleeves and trousers can be shortened. The shoulders of a finished jacket can hardly be changed.
How do the three compare?
Bespoke suit (precision tailoring or business tailoring)
What you get: a one-off piece, made by hand in our own atelier
How the cut is made: a pattern of your own, adjusted after every fitting
Fittings: as many as needed, usually 4 to 5
Time: depends on the piece, usually 4 to 5 weeks
When to choose it: when the suit has to fit exactly, for business, weddings and occasions, or when standard sizes never quite fit you
Made-to-measure
What you get: an adjusted standard suit, fabric and details from a selection
How the cut is made: a base pattern, adjusted to some measurements
Fittings: usually one
Time: usually a few weeks
When to choose it: when a standard size almost fits and you want to choose the fabric and details yourself
Off the peg
What you get: a finished suit in a standard size
How the cut is made: from a size chart
Fittings: in the changing room
Time: immediately
When to choose it: when you need the suit today and a standard size fits well
How is a bespoke suit made at Lawrence Fashion?
The first meeting takes about an hour. We talk about what the suit is for, which cut you have in mind, and what you like or miss about the suits you own.
We choose the fabrics together, from swatches and sample books. You see and feel the fabric before it is cut.
Anna K. Milojevic Keller takes all the measurements herself. They are recorded on your measurement sheet.
The measurements become the first draft of your paper pattern. Then the fabric is cut by hand.
Anna is at every fitting, together with the person who sews your suit. After each fitting the pattern is adjusted. It usually takes 4 to 5 fittings.
The suit is finished by hand in the atelier. From the first meeting to collection usually takes 4 to 5 weeks, depending on the piece.
Why does a bespoke suit need several fittings?
Each fitting shows something a measurement alone cannot: how the fabric falls, how the shoulders sit when you move, and how the trousers sit when you sit down. At the first fitting we check that the draft is going in the direction you have in mind. At the following ones we adjust it step by step, until the suit sits without creases.
Is there a bespoke suit for women too?
Yes. In the same atelier we make women’s bespoke suits and trouser suits, as well as couture, customised blouses and fashion for business women. The process is the same: a pattern of your own, fabrics chosen together, and fittings until the suit fits.
What can I choose for a tailor-made shirt?
The fabric, collar shape, buttons, cuffs and monogram. Together we design your shirt as a one-off piece. If you already have a bespoke suit from us, the shirt can be matched to it.
How early should I come for a wedding suit?
The suit itself usually takes 4 to 5 weeks. Allow extra time for fittings and accessories. We suggest coming for the first meeting about three months before the wedding. On request we also provide the cummerbund, plastron, tie, pocket square and cufflinks.
Book an appointment
Lawrence Fashion, Usteristrasse 10 at Löwenplatz, 8001 Zurich. Phone +41 43 344 84 44. Monday to Friday 8 am to 12 noon and 1 to 5.30 pm, Saturday by appointment.